3 Squares

Not every ’burb can be blessed with an historic main street, so the relatively new community of Maple Grove came up with a simple solution: Build one. This does seem a little Universal Studios, and the giant parking lots belie the intended feel. Happily, independent restaurants balance out the Buca’s and the Paneras. The same people who bring you the friendly neighborhood grills of Edina, Highland and Longfellow have brought 3 Squares to Maple Grove, with the same “all things for all people” attitude. As with those other eateries, the menu here is made up of offerings almost no on can argue with: turkey burgers, banana waffles, chicken wings and quesadillas. And as you might expect with that kind of common-denominator grub, the innocuous pub-like space was bursting with business when we stopped in.

We found gorgonzola-sweet corn fritters with chimichurri to be some of the most craveable drinking food in memory; a great, big, good Caesar with Asiago; and a bland mac-and-cheese that could have used anything at all to help it out. Our server was as friendly as Mr. Rogers and took back an arduous chardonnay without complaint, replacing it with wee, sweet bottles of bubbly.

For that place where you’re sure to love something, this one’s worth checking out.