How To: Cure for Hunger

Chef Paul Berglund of the Bachelor Farmer teaches us the original slow cooking.

Image credit: Photo by Tate Carlson

Recommended by the Editor

Food and Drink: Slow it Down

Recipe: Modern Classic

By: Mecca Bos |   October 2011   |  From the print edition

Chef Paul Berglund is keen on curing, as evidenced by the gravlax (raw salmon cured with salt, sugar and dill) that appeared on his debut menu at the Scandinavian-influenced Minneapolis hot-spot The Bachelor Farmer. “Preserving fish developed in Northern Europe to stock pantries for the lean times, to reap seasonal bounties and as an energy source for sailors during long sea voyages,” says Berglund. “This practice was such an important part of the diet of Nordic peoples that today’s descendants still have a taste for it long after it stopped being a necessity.” 

Here, Berglund shows us a typical salt and sugar cure that works well for fatty fish such as mackerel, herring and, most commonly, salmon (“gravlax” is Swedish for “buried salmon”—early iterations of the technique involved lightly salting the fish then fermenting it underground. These days, chefs “bury” the fish in salt and other seasonings).

• Whatever fish you choose, make sure it’s super fresh. Ask your fishmonger for “sushi- grade” filets.             
• The small bones that run along the length of the fish, known as “pin bones,” must be removed. Needle-nose pliers work well for this job.         
  Wash and dry the fish and keep it refrigerated until you are ready for curing.
• The salt-to-sugar ratio is a matter of preference. Berglund’s recipe uses equal parts kosher salt and sugar by weight, a combo that showcases the full flavor of the fish while yielding an intensely sweet taste and dense, silky texture. You will need approximately one cup of the seasoning mixture per two-and-a-half to three pounds of fish filet. A pinch of white or black pepper is also a great addition. Fresh dill is essential—and lots of it. For three pounds of filet, use three large bunches, stems and all, roughly chopped. Combine above ingredients.
• Cover the bottom of a shallow dish with one-third of the seasonings. Lay the filet skin-side down in the dish. If you have a whole side of salmon (or another large, fatty fish), cut it in half, width-wise, to fit into a smaller dish. Sprinkle on the remaining seasonings, then place a layer of plastic wrap directly on top of the fish. Place another pan on top of the fish, then weigh it down with a couple of soup cans or a big jar of pickles. The weight purges the fish of internal moisture, concentrating the natural flavor.
• Turn the fish every 12 hours for 48 hours, finishing skin-side up.
  Enjoy! (Or wrap it up and store in the fridge for up to three days).