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Metro Magazine
The Food Purveyor is Your Friend
By Mecca Bos
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(Photo by Sara Rubinstein
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If you are going to do any kind of serious cooking at all, you’ll figure out sooner (if you’re savvy) or later (if you want to pay too much and swear a lot) that you need a few professionals on your side. Because I’m stubborn, it took me a long time to heed the advice of many cookbook authors and make the acquaintance a few people I can trust: a butcher, a cheesemonger and a food importer. (These days, you can even get yourself a farmer.) Don’t be like me: Get yourself some fine food purveyors and start cooking like a pro now. 

Get a Butcher
For me, it’s all about meat with a conscience. “Grass-fed,” “sustainable,” “free-roam”—they’re more than buzzwords, and my butchers at Clancey’s can tell me all about the true meaning behind my meat. Of equal importance is the quality of their product, which is superior to just about anyone else in town. But even if food politics isn’t at the top of your priority list, you’re going to need a good butcher. Only he can give you pancetta instead of regular old bacon, or let you know when it’s just as good to use the bacon. Research who’s in your neighborhood and go shake his hand immediately. If he’s got blood spattered on his apron, that’s a good sign.

Mecca’s favorite: Clancey’s, featuring an all-local meat case as well as house-made charcuterie, stocks, demi-glace, pickles, a selection of fresh seafood and even gourmet dog food.

4307 Upton Ave. S., Mpls.; 612.926.0222

Honorable mentions:
Seward Coop Meat Counter; 2111 Franklin Ave., S., Mpls.; 612.338.2465;

Everett’s Food & Meats; 1833 E. 38th St., Mpls.; 612.729.6626


Get a Cheesemonger
All cheese is not created equal, and while bad cheese is perhaps better than no cheese, good cheese is better than almost anything. Don’t believe me? Put grocery store-bought “blue cheese crumbles” next to any of the world’s greats—Cabrales, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, or Stilton—and be awakened. But don’t take it from me. I promise, your new cheesemonger will be on your Christmas card list this year.

Mecca’s favorite: Premier Cheese Market, where retired Navy captain Ken Liss has an encyclopedic knowledge of all things fromage as well as a nice selection of premium chocolate, salt, olives, vinegars and oils. Delightfully easy to talk to, Ken is always good for a long chat about cheese as well even politics, travel or anything else that’s on your mind. Get there quick, though, because this place closes for good on 12/6. I'll miss you Ken!

5013 France Ave. S., Mpls.; 612.436.5590

Honorable mentions:
St. Paul Cheese Shop; 1573 Grand Ave., St.Paul; 651.698.3391

Surdkyk’s Cheese Shop; 303 E. Hennepin Ave., Mpls.; 612.379.3232


Get a Food Importer
It simply doesn’t pay to be buying sticky rice, saffron or imported hot peppers from the “ethnic foods” aisle at the supermarket. With the influx of immigrant communities from Somalia to Russia, you may very well find what you’re looking for at Lunds, Byerly’s and even Rainbow, but chances are you’ll pay for it. If you’re cooking ethnic food of any sort, it would behoove you to find an ethnic market, and no, there’s no need to find a specialty shop each time you switch up the global region of a dish. Just ask the Latino couple I recently spotted at Shuang Hur Oriental Market buying 30-pound sack of rice. “Adios!” called the Vietnamese proprietor as they lugged the stuff out the door. Ethnic markets: They’re cheap, friendly and fun.

Mecca’s favorite: Bill’s Imported Foods is a mainstay of the old, interesting, pre-condo Uptown, and here you’ll find most of what you need, from the best olive bar in town to the cheapest fresh herbs and produce.

721 W. Lake St., Mpls.; 612.827.2892

Honorable mentions:
Shuang Hur Oriental Market; 2710 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.; 612.872.8606

Curry Up Grocery; 13601 Grove Dr., Maple Grove; 763.416.0473



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