Northeast Social Club
Sometimes, a restaurant is just a place to get a sandwich. Other times, even the floorboards reverberate with a sense of place, family, history, soul. Northeast Social is the latter kind of restaurant—a mighty big feat for a place just a few months old. Partners Sam Bonin and Joe Wagner, childhood friends, world-travel companions and restaurant lifers, say the bistro, which they lovingly rehabbed with only help from friends and family, is an embodiment of their mutual desire to put down some roots.

“We spent the past 10 or 15 years doing stupid shit,” quips the 30-ish Bonin, who exudes a smooth-talking charm that makes him a natural host, no doubt popular with the ladies. He says the two traveled the world, traversing over 20 countries and 40 states. But both men are married now (Wagner’s wife designed the handsome bistro, rich in tones of royal blue). Bonin has an 8-year-old son and the word “family” tumbles from his mouth every few sentences. Charmer or not, he’s ready to settle down.

He says Northeast is the coolest neighborhood in the city for its blue collar pedigree and artists’ community, making it the obvious choice. “We wanted an American restaurant inspired by travel with food that the people would be comfortable with.” Global inspirations can be found throughout: the social-style beer—a Brazilian custom—is served in a big jug to split amongst friends (a steal at $7); and anyone who’s visited gay Paris will recognize the sidewalk café with wicker chairs and strolling musicians.

The menu, by chef Eddie Hayes (formerly of Osteria I Nonni and Cue; also a childhood friend of Bonin and Wagner), is a familiar blend of contemporary bistro fare, with the likes of pan-fried walleye, grilled lamb and gnocci making simultaneous appearances on the changing menu. “But our food is more about philosophy,” Bonin says. “When the farmers come in and shake our hands in the morning, they have dirt under their nails. Our chef butchers his own pigs. We cooperate with other restaurants to buy things that would otherwise be unaffordable, and turn that affordability over to our customers. We think of it as advocating for our guests. This is a restaurant for the people.”

I believe him when he rings a brass bell behind the bar, raises his glass and shouts a toast to the entire room: “Social!”

Butcher Block
Months before it even opened, tongues were wagging pretty ferociously about Butcher Block, the Italian trattoria-slash-chicken wing joint that took over the Fugaise space on East Hennepin. While everyone was sad to bid farewell to Fugaise’s cavernous dining room and serious cooking, a late-night spot (really late—2 a.m. on weeknights and 4 a.m. on weekends) piqued interest and appetites. Has it satiated those cravings? Sort of.

The room is still dour, and while both sides of the menu are good, they read like they’ve been taken from two separate restaurants with two separate chefs. What gives?

Repeated messages went unanswered, so I was forced to make my own deductions. The talent behind Butcher Block is clearly formidable. You have the youthful enthusiasm of chef Darin Koch, the old-world wisdom of butcher Filippo Caffari and the broad experience of restaurateur Fabrizi Cicconne (La Bodega, Nochee, Café Agri). Do too many chefs spoil the soup?

On a recent visit, we sampled a solid beef carpaccio, a just-fine Romanesca salad of romaine, cucumber and tomato with an anchovy vinaigrette (there also seems to be a nod toward Greek or Middle Eastern cooking going on) and a truly beautiful Rigatonchini alla Cocca with guanciale (a very fancy name for rigatoni with bacon,) tomato and smoked paprika.

Smack in the middle of what would have been an otherwise enjoyable Italian meal, we had a dozen sambal chile chicken wings. (Orders do not come smaller than one dozen pieces; another oddity since, with 29 flavors available, it would be nice to try more than one). While the wings were crisp and big with flavor, they were altogether out of place and I wished I were eating them late at night with a last-call cocktail in my hand. Which, thankfully, I can do every night of the week here. Did I mention they do box lunches and catering by day? Three eateries rolled into one. The holy trinity of gastronomy?

I like Butcher Block. The ambition of it is almost intoxicating. But I also worry for it. The 29th wing flavor is “Kitchen Sink.” Can the aspiration of offering everything, including the kitchen sink, be wise? Predictions in this industry are always considered scurrilous, so I’ll say only this: Get your late-night basket of Kitchen Sink wings, and get ‘em while they’re hot. 

New / Soon to open in Northeast

Anchor Fish & Chips
Yet another addition to the exciting growth of 13th Avenue, this “real deal” fish and chips joint (Alaskan cod and Minnesota-grown potatoes) comes to us from two Irish expats and one American. Also serving the traditional fisherman’s lunch of pasties. Beer, wine and outdoor patio, too.
302 13th Ave. NE, Mpls., 612.676.1300

Gas-tro-nome
First Butcher Block, and now Gas-tro-nome, a pub with a butcher shop feel. Two Nicollet Island Inn alumni are behind the upscale pub with a snout-to-tail cooking philosophy (the same duo opened Victory 44 in north Minneapolis and the Kitchen in Stillwater—see page 67—earlier this year). Featuring more than 200 labels of whiskey.
314 East Hennepin Ave., N.E., Mpls.

Blue Skies Wine Bar
Wine for a dollar? Thanks to the “Enomatic Wine System,” you can sample Blue Skies’ hundred or so wines in portions as small as an ounce, priced at about a buck per. Better still, you can help yourself using a credit card or house debit card. Gastropub fare plus small plates.
24 University Ave. S.E., Mpls.