Lounging on the patio of the
Bulldog St. Paul on a beautiful summer night in Lowertown, a fountain bubbling in Mears Park, it was impossible not to notice how many passersby with dogs came trotting by. Lots and lots of dogs, everywhere. And perhaps it was because downtown St. Paulites finally have somewhere to walk their dogs
to.
With
Barrio and The Bulldog sprouting up on the same block, this end of downtown suddenly seems like a destination. That might seem like an unlikely feat for only two restaurants to have achieved, but it is so, judging from the throngs of happy eaters and drinkers out late (10pm!) on a weeknight. Okay, it is a bit tedious to chide St. Paul for rolling up the streets at sundown. It’s been done. But I have to say, I haven’t spent a more pleasant patio evening since
Tosca, and that’s saying something. Lowertown is a perfect candidate for sidewalk dining (or the open air layout of the adjacent Barrio) with just enough action for people (and dog) watching, with very little car traffic.
The food. We were pleasantly surprised to find our B.E.L.T. (bacon, egg, lettuce and tomato) and grouper sandwiches to be fantastically executed—the egg cooked medium, the fish crisp on the outside and moist within, the accompanying tots addictive as tots have ever been. Unfortunately, service fell down hard on this visit—bewildered, forgetting portions of the order, the case of the missing beer, and more. However, said service was earnest and genuinely apologetic, so all was not lost.
What they got right: The patio is perfectly situated on a corner of Lowertown you want to be imbibing on right now. The kitchen seems well trained, and bar food is made with what seems to amount to love.
What they got wrong: Perhaps our server was having her first day, ever.
Grade for this visit: B- (for effort)