It’s easy to think the last great meal you had was the best one of the year, as it lingers so closely to your sense memory; all the others tend to fall away like so many past loves. After my first meal at Tosca, I found myself peeking back at my digital photos and pilfered menu like a smitten girl with a new BF. Dang, that stuff was good.

A “flavors of spring plate” with Kadejan farms chicken liver pate, Star Thrower Farms Goat Cheese, and a smattering of other accompaniments was nicely composed, but tiny portions made it difficult for sharing around a table. But that small detail quickly faded when presented with spring vegetable risotto, bucatini and “fresh sheets,” the star of the show. Two large sheets of pasta (think roughly the size of a B&B plate) conceal a precisely soft cooked egg yolk, which becomes the sauce when pierced. Laying atop this beguiling little package you’ll find beef crudo (steak tartar,) grana padano, balsamic, mostarda and some capers and herb. Simple, unique, stunning. 

The risotto was as tender and light as the dish can get, showcasing a housemade mascarpone and spring vegetables with unbelievable clarity. The bucatini was so filled with so much flavor, I was fooled into thinking there was pancetta in the vegetarian dish (it also comes available with Maine dayboat lobster for a significant upcharge).

A beet salad and a side of local mushrooms were models of what these ubiquitous dishes should be.

Desserts of housemade gelatos, sorbets, an Italian crème cake and panna cotta were also standouts, especially the latter, served with berry compote and candied pistachios which made me a new fan of this classic, yet usually overly gelatinous dessert. I’m thinking of dashing over there for one right now.

With their quiet sidewalk café, reasonable price points (pastas fall into the $10 range for half portions, $15 for a whole; entrees, or secondi do go into the twenty and even thirty dollar range, but for my money, I'm sticking with the primi side of the menu) this is where you want to be dining this summer. Service was quiet and efficient but not overly friendly or memorable. If the kitchen talent remains (chef is Adam Vickerman of Café Levain) I predict this place is destined to become the Twin Cities’ next big thing.

Grade for this visit: Solid A

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In other news, I had been invited to the preview dinner of The Butcher Block, but then received an email informing me that I had been uninvited (no more reservations available). So I will have to report back after the official opening (scheduled for tomorrow).