My embarrassing confession is that I have never dined at True Thai prior to a week ago. And, I still haven’t-- just grabbed takeout. I have a few places like that-- I just haven’t made it. It isn’t in my neighborhood, and when I think of pad thai or curry I have a smattering of other contenders a stone’s throw away. Still, there’s no excuse for overlooking one of the most praised restaurants in town-- some people think that True Thai is the only "authentic" Thai in the cities, whatever that means. I’m sorry. Forgive me?

What They Got Right:

The Rad Na with pork was one of the best things I’ve had in my mouth in a long time. The clean, lemony brightness of ginger with garlic, soy, fish sauce and sugar come together to make a gravy so complex; yet each flavor jumps up assertively and introduces itself like a precocious four year old.The wide, chewy noodles were a perfect vehicle for this, well cooked pork, and refreshing chinese broccoli. Only authentic talent can produce a dish this real. When I called to place the order, my phone operator was quick and efficient: “See you in 15 minutes, bye bye.” I liked this. No need for clunky niceties when pad thai is on the way.

What they Got Wrong:

Somewhat disappointingly, the pad thai wasn’t much. It wasn’t bad, just wasn’t notable, featuring that sort of sticky, cloying sweetness that too many pad thais do. Also, there won’t be any inquiries about what spice number you desire. If you want it spicy, you’ll need to be preemptive and say so, otherwise you’ll get it Minnesota mild.

The Verdict: Quick, efficient and overall very good. Highly recommend the Rad Na.

Grade for this visit: B+