Fork the Fire

We’re Minnesotans and we’re food people, so I wouldn’t have expected anything less, but it was wonderful to feel so much love in the room in the form of good food and money raised for a great cause. It should go without saying why most of the restaurant world turned out in support of Heidi’s & Blackbird on Sunday to raise funds for rebuilding efforts and interim needs as both eateries recover from fire devastation. To all the big-hearted chefs, cooks and foodies out there: good on ya.


Agnolotti at Victory 44

At the moment, I’m loving just about everything about Victory 44. Their experimental ambition, edgy vibe, not to mention the exacting cuisine at every bend. It’s my favorite place now. Just one recommendantion amongst many: the duck liver agnolotti. If ever there was a precisely made ravioli, anywhere on the planet, then this is it. So accurately cooked it nearly breaks your heart, and as you bite, the meaty, decadent surprise of silky pate, all of it kissed with an airy foam—it’s reward after reward after reward. I wish all of March could be this way.


Supenn Harrison of Sawatdee

After 30 years in the business, Supenn Harrison may be our local grande dame of independent restaurantuers, and at 64 years young, she’s still going strong. She’s got more chutzpah than a woman half her age (this one included) and a lunch with her is a lesson in work ethic, Buddhism, stamina and humor. She’s been through plenty in these three decades, and speaks fondly of the idea of retirement. (Secretly, I think she’d be like a runaway train without the focus of the hardest work in the world, but if the woman hopes to retire then I'd say she's earned it).

Sawatdee's longtime location at North 4th street will be closing soon due to leasing issues. Stop by and have a bowl of Tom Yum Soup, some of the best in town, before its gone. (The flagship Washington location is still going strong, as is St. Paul, St. Cloud, and two suburban locations).

Also check out her new cookbook, Awaken to Thai Cooking, available in the restaurants.


Lotus Blossom Cookies

Placed next to a savory meal, this lightly sweet deep-fried Thai confection is rather like a beautiful alternative to any other mundane starch. Paired with laab, sticky rice, long beans and some cabbage, it renders any Asian meal into a treat, indeed. Made by dipping a lovely brass mold into a somewhat fussy batter and then deep frying, you’d do well to just buy yours at United Noodles or other Asian market.


Dinner Parties

No matter how many spectacular dining experiences I have the pleasure of enjoying, and there are many, there will never be a thing more indulgent, more relaxing, more delightful than a dinner party at someone else's home. And, even if you don’t have amazingly ambitious cooks for friends who make scratch lasagne out of handmade noodles, béchamel, and long-simmering Bolognese (you know who you are, lady) I'd still recommend any old dinner party any old time. A plateful of underseasoned meatloaf made with love and served at a rickety old kitchen table beats emulsions, sabayons, and roulades any day of the week.

Invite me over. I’ll bring the wine.