The opening night of Anchor
Fish & Chips was one of those cold, grey, drizzly nights that truly did evoke rainy London or Galway. All the sweeter then, was my basket of fish & chips, the best I've ever had outside of Ireland (and possibly just as good). And no way was it a coincidence that the small yet ever-so-elegant eatery in what continues to be touted as "Minneapolis' coolest neighborhood" was packed to the gills (get it? Fish and chips? Gills?) with would-be diners. I was even told that some were turned away, yet after meeting the incredibly accommodating staff, I find that hard to believe. I'm not sure the number of pounds of spuds or how many filets of cod were served that night, but with their 1 a.m. closing time, it's impressive that they didn't run out of product.
And, they're worthy of every bit of buzz. Despite the throngs of people clogging up the vestibule and parked at every single table and chair, service was head-spinningly fast, friendly and even charming. My date and I ducked out for a cocktail at a neighboring pub while we waited for a table, and upon returning we were approached by a staffer to thank us for coming back. She didn't have to do that, and frankly, she wouldn't have had she worked almost anywhere else. But she did, and that kind of thing will keep me coming back.
But what about the food? If you have been living under the sea and havnen't already heard, Anchor is our town's first real-deal "chipper," the kind of authentic fish & chips joint that would stand up to any die-hard fan. The menu is short, sincere and completely adequate. Fish & chips are obviously the star of the show, but you'll also find traditional favorites of pasties, Shepherd's pie, toasties, a couple of burgers and full Irish breakfasts. Nothing exceeds ten bucks, and even all the beer and wine (tap, bottles and cans of the usual suspects and even splits of champagne!) is under five.
In a nutshell, this is kind the kind of restaurant the world needs now.
Hand-cut chips are crisp on the outside, and downright creamy within. You'll be hard-pressed to let a single one escape, which hardly ever happens when a basket of fries is before you. The fish is fried golden in the truest sense of the color, crisp enough to crack the exterior with a fork, and the flakes of white cod within are truly a thing of beauty.
Anchor is my new favorite place.
What they got right: Elevating service back to its rightful place: staff who seem genuinely pleased to serve, even when very, very busy. Cuisine that isn't just what it purports to be, but really delivers. Fish & chips that could just have easily come straight out of the other side of the pond.
What they got wrong: Nada.
Grade for this visit: Obviously, an A.