I’ll admit it: I’ve always had a soft spot for Figlio. I’m old enough that I dined there as a kid, when it was a special occasion kind of place-- a destination, even. As Minneapolis institutions go, I’d say it qualifies. For almost 25 years, it’s hardly changed—it’s the same place my mom took me for a towering slice of death by chocolate cake long before I was old enough for chocolate martinis. This being my hometown, I sometimes hate to see decades old things change.

In September, Figlio will be closing for a major remodeling project, just in time for my speculation that the anchor of Uptown would never change. The news made me a little bit sad.

Imagine my relief when I sat down one of the worst meals I’ve had in recent memory. Feeling nostalgic, I hunkered down solo on the sidewalk café for a light meal. Keeping in mind that this was lunch, I was appalled to find salads and sandwiches going into the $16 range. Wanting only something light, I ordered a half ceasar and a half ravioli. This, plus two glasses of wine-- I ordered two of the most moderately priced selections by the glass-- cost me $39 after gratuity. $39! (Sure, I know two glasses of wine at lunch isn’t a necessity, but that’s the kind of gal I am).

The salad was possibly one of the worst I’ve had-- the greens limp and rusty around the edges, the vinaigrette premixed for too many days, a pair of the ugliest, dries anchovies tossed on top for I don’t know what purpose. The ravioli was nicely cheesy, but the underseasoned sauce was like something out of a chefboyardee can, and the worst part is I left this lunch still hungry.

What angered me the most about this menu perusal is that it smacked of gouging. That in this economy, a meal out can be a luxury for many, value having an important meaning, and that Figlio is choosing to ignore these things.

Figlio needs a remodel. When it reopens, I hope there is a bigger draw than the fact that it has just always been there.

Grade for this visit: D

Other News: The grand opening of The Kitchen is coming up this Sunday, August 24^th. The self-described gastropub by Eric Harcey and Ben Hiza, also of Victory 44 also features Jim Kyndberg (of the recently shuttered Bayport Cookery) as part of the kitchen team.

The party starts at 4pm for complimentary beer, wine and menu samples. I recently sampled some of Harcey’s cooking at his other restaurant, Victory 44, and found some formidable talent. The party ought to be worth a drive to Stillwater. I know I’ll be there.